Debalic wrote:
Yeah, that's freaking retarded, isn't it? Most mods are made to stand up.
And for a reason, since tanks tend to leak if placed on their side. RDAs, obviously, even moreso (less to leak I suppose though). So you'd think that someone designing a rectangular shaped mod, with internal (non-removable) battery, and internal tank (rather than screwed on top, so basically just the tip sticks out the top), would have stopped and thought: "Hey. Maybe we should put the usb charging port on the side so that this thing can be charged standing upright?"
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I forgot about it because it has a removeable battery and it's generally accepted that these batteries are better off charged in a dedicated charger instead of in the mod itself.
Yeah, and you get the benefit of being able to rotate batteries though the charger rather than have to set the entire mod somewhere to charge. And it's generally easier/cheaper to replace batteries as they die.
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Vaping is really a study in engineering and electricity; I had exactly zero knowledge of Ohm's Law before this. There's an entire sub-forum about coil builds; for example, building a 28/24 five-wrap Clapton coil to .3Ω at 50W.
Please tell me that's at least a quad coil configuration (and you're counting the total wattage applied to the entire mod). Cause... 50W on one coil will like light your wick on fire. I couldn't tell you the names of products and whatnot, but I am familiar with Ohm's law and how it's applied in this case. Interesting math on that. About 3.8V, which means you're drawing about 13A off the battery (which is a serious load). Assuming quad coils, that's still 12.5W to each wick, which is on the high end of safe to use (and you'd better have a good juice flow for that, and take short vapes).
For those not familiar with the subject, a basic single coil mod would typically utilize say a 9 wrap 30 gauge wire (which, depending on post configuration will typically result in about 1.5 Ohms). Target Watts (for most sane people) is about 8-9W. Standard Li-ion battery output is 3.7V, and most standard variable voltage devices can step that up or down from 3V to 6V. In this case, if you wanted that ideal 8-9W heat to your wick, you'd set your Volts to 3.4 to 3.7 ((V^2)/Oms=W)). That setting will result in a (A=W/V) a 2.3A to 2.4A draw on the battery.
Which is pretty easy and basic, and any $40 mod can attain it. It's easy on the batteries, and easy to rebuild/maintain. The kind of build mentioned earlier, is pretty far on the hardcore range of things. As you said, interesting from an engineering standpoint, but not really so practical.
I did find it amusing reading that recent (really really flawed) experiment where they were able to produce toxic fumes by setting the voltage to a very high setting (resulting in Wattage levels as high as the coil mentioned above, but re-heated too frequently so as to ensure wick burning). When asked why he did that, despite several previous studies on the subject that established that precise method as incorrect, his answer was that he sees guys vaping and producing massive clouds of vapor, and the only way he could think to do that was to increase the watts to the coil. Apparently, it never occurred to him to ask those vapers how they did it. Because if he had, they would have shown him the simple solution of running multiple coils of wire. Capillary action on each wick is constant per wick, not some fixed quantity for the entire device. Thus, you can produce four times the total vapor at a safe Watt setting per coil (a setting that wont dry out the wick and produce harmful fumes) by simply having four coils (and four wicks, one per coil). You'll draw four times the Amps from the battery, but the resulting effect produces those huge clouds, without burning the wicks.
So... really bad science.
Edited, Jul 28th 2015 2:51pm by gbaji