Now, I wouldn't normally...Follow

...post videos of surfing around here, 'cos I know you all think its for layabout pot-smoking ne'er do wells like me, but I reckoned I'd make an exception for this one. Its the first big Pipeline swell of the season and the photography is fecking awesome. It starkly illustrates the part of surfing that puts you on that incredibly fine line between glory and annihilation that makes the whole thing such a rush, and causes some of us to spend inordinate amounts of time and money chasing around the world searching for.

Here ya go....