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Car Trouble (Fish or Cut Bait)Follow

#1 Jul 11 2006 at 10:51 AM Rating: Decent
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I've got a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme (only 88,000 miles) and since you guys seem to know your way around cars (or at least be sensible) then I'd like some input.

I brought it in for an oil leak and the mechanics say that it has a leaking head gasket, leaking distributor cap, and a leaking oil pressure sending unit. It seems that those three sites are the most common places for a leak so I'm not sure I trust that they actually found the leak. I'd like to get a second opinion, but, I'm not entirely sure where and since this place is at least close to where I live... if I'm going to get raped, I might as well do it in comfort or something.

To fix it will cost ~$500.

I could cut bait and get rid of the thing, and move to a new car, and I could afford it. But I'd rather not, I think.

This car needs about 1,000/year in repairs at this point. Which is still a site cheaper than a new car.

I would like to buy (lease?) new when I get there and I'm looking at the 20,000 range for a car... but I'm not 100% on if I should buy now when I can (for cheaper) just keep the car running that I have. Even if I hate it most of the time.

My only hang up is that this is money I can't ever get back, though I understand a car is not an investment.

I appreciate the input.
#2 Jul 11 2006 at 10:56 AM Rating: Decent
How much did you pay for the car? add that with $1k a year in repairs. How many years have you been repairing it? Is the total more or less than what a new car would cost you? If its more, I say go trade it in on something new with a warranty. Perferably a Toyota. Toyota's live FOREVER!
#3 Jul 11 2006 at 11:00 AM Rating: Decent
The One and Only Katie wrote:
How much did you pay for the car? add that with $1k a year in repairs.
To me, this doesn't matter. It is a sunk cost. I'm driving a 1998 chevrolet cavalier that has over 170k miles on it. It is probably costing me about $500 a year in repairs. The fact that I paid about 11k for the car doesn't really factor in at this point. $500/year is about as cheap as I can hope for a car right now. I'm going to drive it until I end up stranded somewhere.
#4 Jul 11 2006 at 11:03 AM Rating: Decent
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Quote:
leaking head gasket, leaking distributor cap, and a leaking oil pressure sending unit.


Leaking head gasket.. big problem - see below

Leaking distibutor cap? I think they meant distributor, not the cap. That is nothing more to fix than remove the distro and replace the gasket, no biggie.

Leaking oil pressure sending unit... again, no biggie, remove and replace the gasket - heck might as well replace the sending unit while your there, reasonably cheap and very easy.

Back to the head gasket - that could be hairy. It will require, at the least, a machining of the heads to get a smooth, leak free fit. The heads may be too warped to allow for machining and may need to be replaced. Another issue could be that it isn't the heads at all but the engine block itself, which may be cracked... that's bad, as in new engine bad.

I would check into the head leak and see what the cause is, as the other 2 issues are not earth shaking. If the heads are shot or the block is cracked, go for the new vehicle. If not, repair and baby it til you're ready for the commitment to a monthly payment.

My Smiley: twocents FWIW...
#5 Jul 11 2006 at 11:06 AM Rating: Decent
Professor CrescentFresh wrote:
The One and Only Katie wrote:
How much did you pay for the car? add that with $1k a year in repairs.
To me, this doesn't matter. It is a sunk cost. I'm driving a 1998 chevrolet cavalier that has over 170k miles on it. It is probably costing me about $500 a year in repairs. The fact that I paid about 11k for the car doesn't really factor in at this point. $500/year is about as cheap as I can hope for a car right now. I'm going to drive it until I end up stranded somewhere.




yeah but the OP said he could afford a new car right now. It might be cheaper for him in the long run to get a new car than to keep repairing this one.
#6 Jul 11 2006 at 11:15 AM Rating: Decent
The One and Only Katie wrote:
yeah but the OP said he could afford a new car right now. It might be cheaper for him in the long run to get a new car than to keep repairing this one.
Agreed, I'm just pointing out that whether or not the new car is cheaper at this point really only depends on 1) the yearly cost of keeping each car running and 2) the possible inconvenience of having difficulties with the old vehicle.

The original cost of the old vehicle is long gone and does not matter. Unless, of course, the old vehicle is not fully paid off, but I get the impression that it is.
#7 Jul 11 2006 at 11:16 AM Rating: Good
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Do not forget to calculate in your gas savings by switching to a newer car, unless you get a humvee. Also a newer car will likely have higher insurance costs. Consider these factors as well.
#8 Jul 11 2006 at 11:19 AM Rating: Good
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I'm somewhat in the same boat. We have 4 cars, 1988 Plymouth Voyager, 1988 BMW 325, and 2 1995 VW Jettas. Out of the 4 cars, my BMW has the least problems and we intend at the very least to keep that car for a few more years.

My husband has got it into his head to clean up and fix one of the Jettas to sell for around $7,500. A lot of modifications went into that car and it was a show car for the previous owner. But he's going to put at least $2,500 into fixing that car to sell it. I would rather sell it for around $5,000 instead of plunking money into it to sell at a higher price. But whatever cash we get out of it, we'll use to repair the other cars. Other Jetta needs a good paint job, a couple of minor repairs to the sunroof and a good tune up. The van needs a good paint job too and the windshield replaced. The BMW just needs a paint job. And for the paint jobs for the van and BMW, I'm just looking at the Maaco specials.

I've toyed with the idea of proposing to my husband to just sell off all 4 cars and get 2 new ones. Better performance, there are warranties, maintenance wouldn't be as expensive I'm thinking too.

I say get the new car AU, sounds like you want one, but won't admit it to yourself. Smiley: grin

Edit: Because he's NOT AngryHippo.

Edited, Jul 11th 2006 at 1:05pm EDT by Thumbelyna
#9 Jul 11 2006 at 11:21 AM Rating: Excellent
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Don't get a Hummer

(text and site name NSFW)

Edited, Jul 11th 2006 at 12:22pm EDT by Danalog
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#10 Jul 11 2006 at 11:25 AM Rating: Decent
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I've never paid a dollar for the car, my mom (*ashamed*) gave it to me when my old Sunbird died.

Quote:
Do not forget to calculate in your gas savings by switching to a newer car, unless you get a humvee. Also a newer car will likely have higher insurance costs. Consider these factors as well.


Good point about the insurance and gas. This car gets a solid 24mpg average on my daily commute which is all I use it for.

Quote:
I say get the new car AH, sounds like you want one, but won't admit it to yourself.

This was a good point until I mentioned it to my wife, who balks at the idea of another car payment on top of her Honda Pilot. Of course she had to get a new car first.

So I've called and I'm getting it fixed. If it is a cracked block then I'll hope they notice it. The car is 14 years old now (15 really, I guess, depending on the year that that model year came out) and the gaskets and things might just be degrading even with the low mileage.

It still is a bunch cheaper every year, especially since I only pay $400/yr in insurance for me and my car. USAA FTW!
#11 Jul 11 2006 at 11:29 AM Rating: Good
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AngryUndead wrote:
It still is a bunch cheaper every year, especially since I only pay $400/yr in insurance for me and my car. USAA FTW!


We were going to switch from GEICO to USAA until USAA told us that they can only insure us until my husband retires from active duty. So we said forget that.

For all 4 cars, we pay $125 a month. $1,500/year for all cars, not too shabby. Smiley: grin
#12 Jul 11 2006 at 11:30 AM Rating: Decent
I love USAA!
#13 Jul 11 2006 at 11:39 AM Rating: Good
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The One and Only Katie wrote:
I love USAA!


I'd switch to USAA, but they told us we can't use them for insurance after hubby retires from active duty. Smiley: cry I'm switching all our investment stuff over to USAA too, but the insurance thing looks like it's a dead issue with hubby retiring next year.
#14 Jul 11 2006 at 11:44 AM Rating: Decent
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Quote:
We were going to switch from GEICO to USAA until USAA told us that they can only insure us until my husband retires from active duty.


This is a lie. Neither me nor my wife has ever been active duty, reserve, or even in the military.

She was a military brat with a USAA credit card that she kept when after leaving dependant status with her father. Because she is a card holder she can open other accounts.

We do home insurance and car insurance with them.

You probably need to talk to them again or apply after he retires. I'm 100% certain someone is without a clue, or that at least after retirement you'll be able to apply.

Also, my father-in-law had no problems when he retired staying insured with them.
#15 Jul 11 2006 at 11:48 AM Rating: Good
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AngryUndead wrote:
This is a lie. Neither me nor my wife has ever been active duty, reserve, or even in the military.

She was a military brat with a USAA credit card that she kept when after leaving dependant status with her father. Because she is a card holder she can open other accounts.

We do home insurance and car insurance with them.

You probably need to talk to them again or apply after he retires. I'm 100% certain someone is without a clue, or that at least after retirement you'll be able to apply.

Also, my father-in-law had no problems when he retired staying insured with them.


That's what so many people have told me and I've gotten so frustrated about it. I'll have to check into it again. Thanks! Smiley: flowers
#16 Jul 11 2006 at 11:48 AM Rating: Decent
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Quote:
I say get the new car AH

I just realized you called me AngryHippo or somthing.
#17 Jul 11 2006 at 12:04 PM Rating: Good
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AngryUndead wrote:
Quote:
I say get the new car AH

I just realized you called me AngryHippo or somthing.


My bad. I thought I hit the U instead of H. I definitely know that you and Mr. High Hippo are not one and the same. 50 lashes with a wet noodle. [:bendover:]
#18 Jul 11 2006 at 12:12 PM Rating: Decent
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Quote:
50 lashes with a wet noodle. [:bendover:]

Now this thread is going somewhere.
#19 Jul 11 2006 at 12:14 PM Rating: Decent
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KriegsmaschineVondentoten wrote:
Quote:
leaking head gasket, leaking distributor cap, and a leaking oil pressure sending unit.


Leaking head gasket.. big problem - see below

Leaking distibutor cap? I think they meant distributor, not the cap. That is nothing more to fix than remove the distro and replace the gasket, no biggie.

Leaking oil pressure sending unit... again, no biggie, remove and replace the gasket - heck might as well replace the sending unit while your there, reasonably cheap and very easy.

Back to the head gasket - that could be hairy. It will require, at the least, a machining of the heads to get a smooth, leak free fit. The heads may be too warped to allow for machining and may need to be replaced. Another issue could be that it isn't the heads at all but the engine block itself, which may be cracked... that's bad, as in new engine bad.

I would check into the head leak and see what the cause is, as the other 2 issues are not earth shaking. If the heads are shot or the block is cracked, go for the new vehicle. If not, repair and baby it til you're ready for the commitment to a monthly payment.

My Smiley: twocents FWIW...


But since you seem to know some of something about it, is it likely that all these places are leaking at once or can they not find the leak so they're doing a scattergun solution?
#20 Jul 11 2006 at 12:18 PM Rating: Decent
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The repairs you need done aren't that serious imo. I've replaced head gaskets with 100% success, no leaks, no training aside from my pop telling me not to ***** up. The only reason your head would be overly warped is if it had been seriously overheated at some point. I'm talking not changing the oil for 12 months and running out of water overheated.

Glad to hear you're getting the Cutlass tip top again.

Imo purchasing a new vehicle is the worst possible investment. You might as well be throwing cash like confetti as you drive off the lot. Keep your eyes open and you may soon run into an ad for one of the rarely driven play toys of the rich and stupid. Let them pay the 'lot tax'.
#21 Jul 11 2006 at 12:32 PM Rating: Decent
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Mossholder wrote:
The repairs you need done aren't that serious imo. I've replaced head gaskets with 100% success, no leaks, no training aside from my pop telling me not to ***** up. The only reason your head would be overly warped is if it had been seriously overheated at some point. I'm talking not changing the oil for 12 months and running out of water overheated.

Glad to hear you're getting the Cutlass tip top again.

Imo purchasing a new vehicle is the worst possible investment. You might as well be throwing cash like confetti as you drive off the lot. Keep your eyes open and you may soon run into an ad for one of the rarely driven play toys of the rich and stupid. Let them pay the 'lot tax'.


I wouldn't exactly call it 'tip top' and it was never a great car to begin with.

I just hope it holds together for a bit longer
#22 Jul 11 2006 at 1:02 PM Rating: Decent
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Quote:
But since you seem to know some of something about it, is it likely that all these places are leaking at once or can they not find the leak so they're doing a scattergun solution?


It is quite possible to see leaks in that many places.. all probably unrelated to each other. Just normal wear and tear.

If you doubt their words though, the easiest way to to go to the local parts store, get a couple of cans of engine degreaser, drive to the local DIY car wash (the kind with the pressure washer wand), spray the degreaser on the hot engine, go have a cigarette (or wait 5-10 minutes if you don't smoke) then pressure wash the engine off. Drive the car and everytime you stop, take a look at the engine and see if those places are leaking or if it is leaking from the top and just spilling into those other spots making it look like there are leaks originating there. That would be be first step - it will save you a ton of time and money to check that first.
#23 Jul 11 2006 at 1:13 PM Rating: Good
Just start using Quaker State oil. Eventually it will gum up all of those leaks at a fraction of the cost of repairing them in the traditional method.

Forget the synthetic crap, just plain old Quaker State. It's not a bad oil and for some reason it gums up minor leaks over a period of time.
#24 Jul 11 2006 at 1:15 PM Rating: Decent
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Yea it could, but I already told them to fix it, and I'm not a car expert so I would be hard pressed to point to the vague regions that they say are leaking.

I could have checked it out but I work from 9-7 almost every day, and just choose not to deal with it.
#25 Jul 11 2006 at 1:16 PM Rating: Good
Ahh, since you already told them to fix it, just keep driving it until it's more expensive to drive that than it is to buy a new car. Problem solved. ::grin::
#26 Jul 11 2006 at 1:28 PM Rating: Decent
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TStephens wrote:
Ahh, since you already told them to fix it, just keep driving it until it's more expensive to drive that than it is to buy a new car. Problem solved. ::grin::


This is what I'm planning to do, I see that as a convergence point in about 3-4 years at the rate things are failing and at the rate that I drive. I'll be coming up on 100,000 miles (finally) in 2008.

If I'm spending 100$/mo it is still cheap compared to a new car.
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