Power Supply IssueFollow

Hello guys, i had this PC for like 8 months, i made it myself because i needed a standar PC.
Power Supply 600w
His Radeon 4670
Athlon 64 X2
Board ECS C51GM-M
The pc works fine but now i whant to upgrade and i jus got a new video card HIS Radeon 5770 on the instructions says i need at least a power supply of 400w and up so i figure mine is ok.
Worked well for like 2 days and now everitime i power on my PC the power supply fans starts to run at max then there is a click sound and they get back to normal speed.The power supply does that 5 times before booting up the pc.I changed the card back to the old one and it stoped doing that so does that means i need a more powerful Power supply? Or i did something wrong??
I tried cheking the cables and all is fine and i reset the bios to Optimal Defaults and nothing solve it.
Please help me out.

Oh BTW the power supply is a chinese one i dont know the brand lol
This is the Power Supply i have
http://cgi.ebay.com/650w-ATX-Power-Supply-120mm-Blue-LED-Fan-w-SATA-PCI-e-/300429094673?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item45f2f82f11

Edited, Sep 12th 2010 7:29pm by darkdhanil

I forgot to mention that this started to happen when i set the fan speed from auto to manual in the Catalys Center and then i put it back to Auto.

Short leads means that the power supply wires are too short to reach all ports on the motherboard sometimes. Usually the 4 pin "core voltage" wire is the one you may have difficulty with.

Wires = lines = leads when talking about computer wireing.

Hmmm, I'd still probably go with power in this instance, but you may have partially cooked your video card voltage regulator

Oww man...
Got a new Power Supply Thermaltake 750w and is still doing the same.
I whent to a friend house and install the card to see if it is fried and it worked fine.
I contacted AMD and they told me to turn off the onboard GPU and i did it and is the same.
What can i do????

Well im waiting for a new board and a new cpu.
AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition
Biostar A780L3G Socket AM3 AMD Micro ATX
Im gonna see if still the same thing.
But whats odd is that if it is the board or the hdd then why it works when i install the old card back?

Oh and speedfan says everithing ok with my HDD

Edited, Sep 15th 2010 12:18am by darkdhanil

Well in a few days ill receive my upgrade parts and ill post the results.
The bios are up to date.

BTW every Power Supply Calculator states that i need from 400w to 450w for the hardware im gonna get.Do i change my 750w for a Cooler Master 500w?? The diference is like $60 that in other case it will be like ok but now i have waisted a lot of $ on upgrades parts and if im not gonna fully use a 750w then ill get the 500w.What do u think??

Edited, Sep 15th 2010 11:02pm by darkdhanil

I never trust the power supply ratings to be honest. As they get warmer, their output starts to drop--in extreme conditions they can drop as low as 40% of rated output.

If it's not an 80+ Certified PSU, I started considering them at 60% the labeled capacity. For an 80+ one, I look at it as 80% the labeled capacity. Then I pad the reccomended capacity up 25% for good measure.

So, if the recommendation is 400 watts, I look to find something that will give 500 watts when adjusted for efficiency.

A generic 650 watt would look more like a reliable 390 watts--don't trust it.

An 80+ Certified 650 watt would look more like a reliable 520 watts--that should be safe.

I got tired of my rig eating the $40 650-700watt PSU's every 8 months and broke down and got a Corsair. Best Buy had a Corsair 650W 80+ model (yellow label) on sale about a year ago, and it has worked wonderfully. Voltages are still solid under load when I pull them up in CPUz hardware monitor--and this room can hit 85 during the summer.

Here's what I have in my case, and even under stress tests (prime95 or looping something like The Last Remnant or FFXIV benchmarks), it doesn't show more than 380 watts draw in my APC monitoring tool:

C2D E8400 3 GHz (clocked @ 4GHz)
Gigaybte EP45-UD3P motherboard
4GB PC1100 1.9v DDR2 RAM (2 x 2GB sticks)
Visiontek ATI 4850 HD 512MB (increased fan speed, sometimes overclock it some)
2 7200 RPM HArd Drives
Pioneer DVD-RW
LG Blu-Ray Burner
4 120MM fans (3 Khaze-Yhuni hi-speed, 1 Thermaltake standard)
1 230mm top mount exhaust fan (low speed Thermaltake)

Raist

Ultra makes decent cases but generic power supplies with no real warranty.

Well, glad you got it working!

55-63 degrees celcius is the rated maximum operating temperature for that processor, so up near 53 isn't ideal, but not in danger zone if that is under full load. Are you using the fan controller that came with that? You might have it stuck in "silent" mode, see if you can switch it to normal operating mode, or bypass it entirely. Or something might not be seated right

The other possibility is a bubble in the heat sync thermal compound. Seeing as you have built your own computer already i'm guessing thermal compound application is somethign you have done on several occasions, but just in case, and for others who might read this thread, a couple of pointers on re-applying thermal grease

1. Always clean the old CPU and the old heat sync thouroughly with rubbing alchohol and lint free cloth that you don't ever want to reuse. This step is messy, but critical. Just applying new thermal compound over the top of the old stuff can lead to air voids, or can actually end up insulating rather than conducting heat if you end up using a different type of compound (the silver based stuff and the ceramic based stuff can react funny sometimes for example)

2. Keep the new layer thin. You don't want to end up with too much compound. it's there to be an interface between the heat sync and the top of the CPU. To get a good bond, I like to pre-spread a very thin layer on the top of the cpu and the bottom of the heat sync, and then aply a tiny bit more in the middle where they will contact, pressure from the attaching mechanisms does the rest.

3. If you pull the CPU heatsync for any reason, it is best to start over, otherwise you risk air voids. I can tell you personally I am guilty of reusing compound sometimes, and sometimes it causes issues. Not a good habit to get into

4. Your thermal compound needs time to "set" and should drop at least a degree over the next day or two after you first bring up your PC

The other thing to look at would be what you are using for thermal grease. It used to be that Artic silver was the only game in town, and they are still good, however there are other, more efficient compounds available now.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_58&products_id=28487
The Indigo Xtreme Thermal interface is about the coolest rated product on the market at the moment from the tests I have seen. I haven't picked one up myself yet, but it is on the list for next time I pull one of my personal CPU's. $20, they aren't cheap, but they tend to average about 5 degrees C cooler than artic silver acccording to most of the evaluations out there. Then again you sometimes have to take those with some skepticism.
Tons of other choices as well. Newegg also has them.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=46_58&zenid=6a807a346039e96e95829cd97d9d2273
I tend to like Performance-pcs for my cooling and case modification toys as they have more of the top end gear than newegg does. Especially when it comes to fans and water cooling.

SO I dunno, hopefully that helps!

Video cards run hotter than graphics cards, especially the ATI/AMD ones recently. That temperature is well within acceptable for that card. The CPU is still a little higher than I'd like to see at full load, but it will probably be ok.

That case isn't really ideal for a high end rig. You might want to think about upgrading it later to something with a bit better ventalation and airflow layout. Cooler master CM-690 II, HAF X, Thermaltake Speedo Advance, etc. Something along those lines.