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all I have to do is make a character copy?
Yup. And download the PTR server file thing... Just click the "PTR" icon on the WoW launcher and it should go automatically.
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Does it let you see the 80pt talents, or just the changes that will happen in the pre-XP patch?
The latter. Those however include the new talent trees. You will however only have 61 points to spend, so at the moment it is impossible to make full 71-point WOTLK build.
To sum it up quickly
Right now in the PTR:
-Barber Shops
-Stormwind Harbor
-New talent trees
-61 talent points
-All the new class balance stuff
-All the new itemization balance stuff (new hit rating, spellpower, etc)
-New skills like Dismantle and Fan of Knives. Keep in mind
not all of those are learnable as some require a level past 70 which is unachievable. Result is that for rogues, Dismantle is train and usable, but FOK is only train and not usable.
-Hole in the ground where old Dalaran used to be
-UI updates; the achievement system, calendar and new vanity pet/mount system the biggest to be named here.
-Entrance to the new CoT instance (instance itself isn't in)
NOT in the PTR:
-Death Knights (The icon in the character creation screen is there but you can't select it, it's grey)
-The ability to level past 70, and with that the ability to gain more than 61 talent points.
-The ability to level professions past 375 (I think, not 100% sure on this one)